September 24, 2024
Meet The Chefs Cooking Up a Culinary Renaissance in Charlotte
The Queen City is a growing destination for Black-owned restaurants and southern cuisine
Charlotte, NC, has long been a hub for sports, culture, innovation, and business. Located 165 miles southwest of Raleigh, the capital of North Carolina, Charlotte is home to the NBA’s Charlotte Hornets, the NFL’s Carolina Panthers, the MLS’ Charlotte FC, and the NASCAR Hall of Fame. It’s also one of the largest financial centers in the U.S. However, outside of sports and finance, the city is gaining recognition for its rich and diverse restaurant scene. As more visitors explore this Southern gem, Black-owned eateries have become essential stops, not only because of their flavorful dishes but also for the stories behind each establishment.
Black-owned restaurants in Charlotte are at the forefront of a culinary renaissance that celebrates African American heritage through food while also adding modern twists to classic dishes. So, whether you’re a tourist looking for a weekend getaway or a Charlottean seeking new experiences in the city, the Queen City (QC) offers an array of options, from traditional soul food to contemporary fusion eateries.
BLACK ENTERPRISE spoke to five restauranteurs in Charlotte about their love for the QC and how their food contributes to the city’s thriving community.
MERT’S HEART & SOUL
If you’re looking for a good, down-home southern comfort meal, then look no further than Mert’s Heart & Soul. Established in 1998, the restaurant is known for its Gullah-inspired dishes like shrimp and grits, creole red beans and rice, and salmon cakes. In addition to high-quality products and delicious food, owner James Bazzelle says southern hospitality and great service are what keep hungry customers coming back.
“We stress to our employees [to make] everybody feel like they’re going to the Auntie’s house,” he told BLACK ENTERPRISE.
Several high-profile celebrities including Kevin Hart and President Barack Obama, along with local theater groups, athletes, and coaches have enjoyed the restaurant’s low country-style cuisine. It was also featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, a TV show that spotlights small, family-owned eateries.
Located in a prime Uptown location, Bazzelle said that his community involvement and philanthropic efforts have also played an important role in his restaurant’s success and longevity.
“We do a lot in the community. Matter of fact, a few hours ago we did a cooking demonstration at the library,” he said. “[If] anybody asks us to help any way we can, we do. We usually donate to all the fundraisers for public schools and back-to-school [drives]. We provide meals for a mentor group every week. We also provide meals for a homeless kids’ center,” he continued. “We just try to be involved in any way we can in the community.”
Location: 214 North College Street, Charlotte, N.C. 28202
THE HEART OF CHARLOTTE
Four-time James Beard nominee Chef Gregory Collier and his business partner and wife, Subrina, are the driving force behind the culinary explosion in Charlotte. Originally from Memphis, the couple arrived in the QC in 2019 with the dream of opening a restaurant. Today, the couple hosts a food festival and owns three popular Charlotte eateries under the umbrella of their company BayHaven Restaurant Group: Uptown Yolk, Leah & Louise, and 3rd and Fernwood. Not only are they part of the food movement in Charlotte, but they’re also two of the most sought-after names in the hospitality and food service industries.
Uptown Yolk puts a modern twist on breakfast and brunch favorites. The restaurant, which closed during the pandemic and reopened last year at Vantage South End, is known for perfecting classic breakfast dishes like their irresistible, fluffy pancakes and their bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich. Plus, it includes a full-service bar. Subrina adds that they’ve poured just as much love into the menu as they did the restaurant’s décor, which pays homage to the Memphis Design Style created by the Memphis Group, a popular design style that blends Art Deco with pop art.
“The design there is Memphis Art Deco. The original Memphis Milan design is what you see, like color blocking.” Uptown Yolk also pays tribute to the Colliers’ Memphis roots by including Tennessee zip codes in the design of the tiles and other “things specific to Memphis, Tennessee,” says Subrina.
Location: 1220 South Tryon Street, Charlotte, N.C. 28203
Leah & Louise, a nationally renowned Southern comfort food restaurant, was named in tribute to Greg’s late sister and grandmother. Since its opening in 2020, the self-described “modern juke joint” has paid homage to Southern culinary traditions by reimagining classic dishes, ingredients, and techniques, all while honoring their rich heritage. Among its standout offerings is the Mud Island, a blackened catfish served with smoked catfish stew, pickled field peas, and rice grits—a dish so celebrated that Vice President Kamala Harris personally requested it during her visit in January.
Location: TBA (The restaurant is relocating to Charlotte’s Historic West End neighborhood.)
Their newest restaurant, 3rd & Fernwood, is a Southern seasonal restaurant with an all-day menu that includes dishes like hambone grits, braised beef meatloaf, pan-seared trout with roasted okra gravy, and candied yams.
Location: 1100 Metropolitan Ave #170, Charlotte, N.C. 28204
BEYOND AMAZING DONUTS
Beyond Amazing Donuts (B.A.D), a small batch donut shop in the Montford neighborhood, puts a creative spin on donuts. The menu features six staple flavors that range from classic treats like the raspberry sprinkle donut and the sweet and creamy vanilla glaze known as “The O.G. Donut” to unique pastries like the brown butter with sorghum carmel donut and the savory black garlic everything donut. Owner and chef Jasmine Macon says her goal is to get patrons to reimagine the classic sweet.
“I want to expand people’s understanding of what a donut can be by experimenting with both traditional and non-traditional flavors, blending sweet and savory elements,” she told BE in an email.
Macon opened B.A.D. in 2022 after she stepped down as the pastry chef at Leah & Louise. Along with putting a fresh spin on donuts, she sees the pastry shop as a vehicle to build community and foster human connections.
“I named my business Beyond Amazing Donuts [because] my love for these pastries goes beyond just how good they are. I want to cultivate a space where everyone can connect, release, and become part of a larger story.”
Macon’s love for baking stems from childhood, after her grandmother encouraged her to experiment with cooking.
“My passion for baking emerged early on. I had several Easy-Bake Ovens and was always experimenting in the kitchen. That’s when I knew an eatery was the path for me.”
Macon, a native of Thomasville, North Carolina, moved to Charlotte and “fell in love with the city” after enrolling in Johnson & Wales University in 2008. “I knew I could comfortably plant my roots in the Queen City.”
Now, her ultimate goal is to leave a legacy in the QC that brings people together and promotes unity.
“I want to be remembered as a giving and considerate person—not without flaws or annoyances—but someone who genuinely sought to offer true connection through donuts.”
Location: 1730 Abbey Place, Charlotte, NC 28209
CUZZO’S CUISINE
Cuzzo’s Cuisine is a popular Charlotte restaurant known for Southern fare and comfort foods like red velvet waffles. It is owned by cousins Chef Andarrio Johnson and Anglee Brown, who launched Cuzzo’s as a food truck in 2014 before opening the first of three brick-and-mortar restaurants in 2016.
Paying homage to their South Carolina roots, Chef Johnson infuses his dishes with Gullah Geechee culture and flavor. His specialty dishes are his award-winning Shrimp and Grits and his Lobster Mac and Cheese.
“My number one dish is my Shrimp and Grits. I won the best Shrimp and Grits in the city from Charlotte’s Best,” he said. “Everybody here in Charlotte loves my lobster mac and cheese.”
Outside of running Cuzzo’s, Chef Andarrio teaches underserved youth from 10 to 15 years old how to cook and eat healthy through his nonprofit Culinary Connection.
“I got a nonprofit [where] I teach kids how to cook and eat healthy. And I got cooking classes for kids. I do it like once every two months. It’s called Culinary Connection. So, anytime a customer shops with Cuzzo’s Cuisine…some of that proceed goes to one of my nonprofits.”
Culinary Connection began after Johnson started providing free meals for children during the pandemic.
“Cuzzo’s Cuisine has been feeding kids for free since COVID 2020 started. And we just never stopped. And that’s what made me start my nonprofit at the time.” He added, “The community really will support you as long as you support them.”
Locations:
Charlotte Premium outlet Food Court located at 5428 New Fashion Way, Charlotte, N.C.
9601 N Tryon St, Charlotte, NC 28262
BIRD PIZZERIA
Bird Pizzeria is not just one of the best pizza joints in Charlotte, it’s one of the best pizzerias in the country, according to The New York Times.
Owners Kerrel and Nkem Thompson opened Bird Pizzeria as a pop-up restaurant in October 2020 before establishing the shop in December 2021 in Charlotte’s Optimist Park neighborhood. But pizza has been part of the husband-and-wife’s love story long before they opened a pizzeria. In fact, they enjoyed pizza on their first date, proving that “love at first slice” is, indeed, a thing.
“When we started, we had no staff, just us, and Nkem was pregnant,” says Kerrel. “Everything you see is only what we could do, little by little. People can feel that when they come. It’s real. We have the most diverse customer base throughout every sort of demographic coming every week. We’re really for the people. Can’t complain about our music selection either!”
At Bird, the pizzas are made to be shared and feature browned caramelized crusts. Seasonal toppings like dandelion pesto and local mushrooms are also offered. Nkem describes the style of their pies as “East Coast artisanal,” explaining that they’re reminiscent of the pizza Kerrel grew up eating in Cleveland. “It’s a combination of all the little things Kerrel gathered over the years from different experiences that he loved with hints of childhood nostalgia,” she told BE in an email.
In addition to delicious pies – and a great playlist, Nkema says their faith has played a major role in Bird Pizzeria’s success.
“The Lord has led us through this whole thing. We’ve been committed to the process and only doing as much as we could do throughout each step. It’s been such a gift to serve so many folks and to be received so well.”
Location: 510 E 15th St, Charlotte, NC, 28206
Discover more Black-owned businesses and start planning your trip to Charlotte at charlottesgotalot.com.